The Knossos Veil

Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo, Spanish Artist, 1871-1949
Knossos Veil, ca. 1906 – ca. 1930, Silk and Metal, 110 x 144 cm, Museo del Traje CIPE, Madrid, Spain https://twitter.com/MuseodelTraje/status/1528695788771201024/photo/1
Knossos Veil, ca. 1906 – ca. 1930, Silk and Metal, 110 x 144 cm, Museo Fortuny, Venice, Italy https://fortuny.visitmuve.it/it/il-museo/sede/la-sede-e-la-storia/
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Tenture_et_robe_de_Mariano_Fortuny_(Mus%C3%A9e_Fortuny,_Venise).jpg
Portrait of Henriette Nigrin wearing a Delphos gown and a Knossos Veil, 1935, Tempera on Wood, Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei, Fortuny Museum, Venice, Italy
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Henriette_Fortuny_par_Mariano_Fortuny_%28mus%C3%A9e_Fortuny,_Venise%29.jpg

Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo’s influence on fashion, reflected in his innovative approach to textile design and garment creation during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, lies in his belief that art should be personally meaningful… I do not want to waste my time, he used to say, with art that has no need of me… Renowned for his luxurious fabrics and intricate patterns, Fortuny revolutionized the fashion world with his signature pleating technique, which allowed the fabric to drape elegantly and maintain its shape without the need for heavy understructures. His iconic Delphos Gown along with The Knossos Veil, both inspired by ancient Greek attire, became symbols of haute couture, coveted by aristocrats and artists alike for their timeless beauty and unparalleled craftsmanship.

A portrait of the legendary couturier as exhibited alongside his work (Credit: Archivio Fotografico Fondazione Musei Civici di Venezia/ Marcello Venturini) https://www.arabalears.cat/misc/colleccio-fortuny-venecia_1_3247710.html

Fortuny, as he is popularly known, was a Spanish painter, set designer, photographer, inventor, and technology aficionado. He was born in Granada, Spain, into an artistic and intellectual family, on May 11, 1871. His father, Mariano Fortuny y Marsal, was a successful genre painter and an avid collector of antiquities and artefacts. His mother, Cecilia de Madrazo y Garreta, was a noted collector of textiles. Fortuny was only three years old when his father died and his mother decided to move to Paris so that her family would be close to her relative Federico ‘Cocò’ de Madrazo, an artist in the circle of Serge Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes.

Growing up in a very artistic and theatrical environment, Fortuny early developed one of his two passions, that of how to apply the latest lighting technology to establishments of the performing arts and galleries of art. Amidst an era dominated by gas illumination, his keen interest in electricity and its applications, particularly within the realm of stage design, led him to develop a revolutionary indirect lighting system known as the “Fortuny Dome,” which he patented in 1901. His innovation of an indirect electric lighting system, capable of emulating the nuances of natural daylight, reshaped the theatrical experience for audiences. This system became widely used in theatrical productions and is still appreciated for its ability to create atmospheric lighting effects.

Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo, Spanish Artist, 1871-1949
Knossos Veil, ca. 1906 – ca. 1930, Silk and Metal, 110 x 144 cm, Museo del Traje CIPE, Madrid, Spain https://twitter.com/MuseodelTraje/status/1528695788771201024/photo/1

In 1888 Mariano Fortuny moved to Venice, where the family interest in antique textiles reignited. His wife Henriette Nigrin, a young woman who he had met in Paris, and who shared his aesthetics, and the family collection of ancient textiles inspired him to explore his second passion, the world of fashion. In 1906 he opened his textile/fashion workshop at the Palacio Pesaro degli Orfei creating original fabrics and costumes using modern techniques, with his own patents, and secrets, impossible to solve even today.

His wife, Henriette Negrin, was a talented and influential figure in her own right. Born in Paris to a family of Sephardic Jewish descent, she married Fortuny in 1902, becoming his lifelong partner and collaborator. Henriette was renowned for her skills in textile design and fashion, contributing significantly to the success of Fortuny’s textile workshop in Venice, Italy. Together, they perfected the intricate techniques behind the iconic Fortuny fabrics, known for their rich colours, luxurious textures, and timeless elegance. Henriette’s creative vision and business acumen played a pivotal role in expanding the reach of Fortuny’s designs, garnering acclaim from royalty, celebrities, and discerning patrons worldwide. Her enduring partnership with Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo underscored their shared commitment to artistic excellence and innovation in the realms of fashion and design.

Model for the Knossos Veil, 1910, Photo by Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo,Archivio Museo Fortuny, Venice, Italy
https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/model-for-the-knossos-scarf-mariano-fortuny/_AFs03WjdU506A

The Knossos Veil emerged as Mariano and Henriette Fortuny’s inaugural foray into the world of textile and clothing design, marking a pivotal moment in their career, and establishing their reputation as masters of their craft. This creation, inspired by the ancient Greek himation, was a substantial piece of printed silk taffeta, measuring an impressive 450 cm in length and 110 cm in width. Its design showcased an extraordinary commitment to craftsmanship, experimentation, and innovation, featuring motifs that spanned early-Corinthian, Minoan, and Archaic Greek influences, including papyrus flowers, heart-shaped palms, stylized flora, octapus and argonaut designs. These patterns, indicative of Fortuny’s fascination with ancient civilizations, were meticulously derived from Minoan fresco and vase painting, encapsulating a blend of historical reverence and artistic ingenuity.

The unveiling of the first prototypes of the Knossos Veil during the ballet for the opening of the Countess of Béarn’s private theater in Paris on March 29, 1906, marked the beginning of its storied history. However, it was the presentation in Berlin on November 24, 1907, that truly showcased the scarf’s allure and versatility, with the legendary American dancer Ruth St. Denis demonstrating the myriad ways it could be adorned, from headdresses to gowns, epitomizing the scarf’s fluid beauty and elegance. The Knossos models were whimsically named… “Alblan,” “Aldou,” “Algan,” “Alro,” “Gandou,” and “Tilleul”… each evoking an air of mystique and otherworldliness, as if conjured from a spellbook.

Display of Knossos Veils, 1910 Photograph, Archivio Museo Fortuny, Venice, Italy https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/display-of-knossos-scarves-mariano-fortuny/cgFuZN5ijI5FBQ

Henriette Negrin, Fortuny’s wife and muse played a critical role in the scarf’s development and was famously immortalized wearing it in a large painting by Fortuny, titled Portrait in Pompeian Costume. This collaboration between Mariano and Henriette not only underscored the depth of their partnership but also highlighted the Knossos Veil’s significance as a versatile and innovative piece that bridged the gap between historical inspiration and contemporary fashion.

The Knossos Veil remains a symbol of Fortuny’s legacy in the fusion of art, history, and fashion, a testament to his and Henriette’s extraordinary vision and creativity.

For a Student Activity, inspired by Fortuny’s Knossos Veil, please… Check HERE!

For a former, July 17, 2020, Teacher Curator Presentation on Fortuny’s Delphos Dress, titled When Fashion becomes Art, please Check… https://www.teachercurator.com/20th-century-art/when-fashion-becomes-art/?fbclid=IwAR338hgUJsJtyH8g3Jz3FY94sxVQFrYhG6S-NQhaW2rKFhwbqNQG9wdRA8w_aem_AZylhUe8XI9z7o2vFhteSLotU8lONi8gw48QfZxF2KaChzmSgMuEUCRast8kH0_zgk4UDd-TkYSDjA_CD2A3SyA2

Bibliography: https://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/sites/galliera/files/cp_dp_visuels/dossiers_de_presse/dp_fortuny_eng_bdef.pdf and https://artsandculture.google.com/story/JgWBsAjx7KyuJg?hl=en and https://www.fortuny.shop/blog/mariano-fortuny/the-fortuny-dome-a-revolution-in-the-theatre/ and https://artsandculture.google.com/story/ZQVxXe7qWmpwKg?hl=en and https://www.academia.edu/5421220/%CE%9C%CE%B9%CE%BD%CF%89%CE%B9%CE%BA%CF%8C%CF%82_%CE%BD%CE%B5%CF%89%CF%84%CE%B5%CF%81%CE%B9%CF%83%CE%BC%CF%8C%CF%82_%CE%97_%CE%B1%CE%B9%CE%B3%CE%B1%CE%B9%CE%B1%CE%BA%CE%AE_%CF%84%CE%AD%CF%87%CE%BD%CE%B7_%CE%BA%CE%B1%CE%B9_%CE%B7_art_nouveau_%CE%B7_%CF%80%CE%B5%CF%81%CE%AF%CF%80%CF%84%CF%89%CF%83%CE%B7_%CF%84%CE%BF%CF%85_Mariano_Fortuny_y_Madrazo (in Greek)

The Three Ages of the Woman

Gustav Klimt, Austrian Artist, 1862–1918
The Three Ages of the Woman, 1905, Oil on Canvas, 180 × 180 cm, Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea, Rome Italy https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c8/Klimt_-_Die_drei_Lebensalter_der_Frau.jpeg

Presenting the painting The Three Ages of the Woman by Gustav Klimt is my humble contribution to Mother’s Day!

Gustav Klimt (1862–1918), an Austrian symbolist painter, was a pivotal figure in the Viennese Secession movement and a prominent member of the Art Nouveau movement. Renowned for his ornate and sensual style, Klimt’s work often explored themes of love, sexuality, and the human condition, characterized by elaborate compositions, intricate patterns, and rich symbolism. He is best known for his iconic paintings such as “The Kiss” and “The Portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer I.” Klimt’s artistic vision transcended conventional norms, influencing generations of artists and leaving an indelible mark on the history of art.

Gustav Klimt’s artistic style is characterized by its ornate and sensual qualities, marked by intricate patterns, rich symbolism, and a vivid colour palette. Influenced by the Art Nouveau movement and the Viennese Secession, Klimt’s works often feature decorative elements inspired by Byzantine art, Egyptian motifs, and Japanese woodblock prints. His compositions are meticulously crafted, with every detail contributing to the overall aesthetic harmony of the piece. Klimt’s exploration of themes such as love, sexuality, and the human psyche is evident in his paintings, which often depict intimate moments and the complexities of human relationships.

One of Klimt’s distinctive traits is his use of gold leaf, which he employed to stunning effect in many of his works, symbolizing spiritual and material wealth, as well as the transcendence of earthly concerns. This shimmering gold backdrop serves to elevate his subjects, lending them an otherworldly quality and reinforcing the ethereal nature of his art. Additionally, Klimt’s portrayal of the female form is notable for its sensuality and eroticism, as he often depicted women with flowing hair draped in luxurious fabrics, evoking a sense of both beauty and mystery. Overall, Klimt’s artistic characteristics reflect a profound exploration of the human experience, expressed through a visually captivating and emotionally resonant aesthetic.

Gustav Klimt’s painting The Three Ages of Woman, completed in 1905, encapsulates the artist’s exploration of life, death, and the passage of time. The painting shows a little girl in the protective arms of her mother, while beside them an old woman stands with a bowed head. The infant represents the beginning of life and the promise of new beginnings, the mature woman, lost in contemplation, symbolizes the complexities and responsibilities of adulthood, and lastly, the elderly woman, signifies the culmination of life’s journey. Depicting a woman in three distinct stages of life—youth, maturity, and old age—the painting symbolizes the cyclical nature of existence and the inevitability of mortality. Through his masterful use of colour, pattern, and symbolism, Klimt imbues the painting with a sense of timeless beauty and existential depth, inviting viewers to reflect on the fleeting nature of human existence and the enduring cycle of life and death.

Completed in 1905, Gustav Klimt’s The Three Ages of Woman swiftly gathered attention, being presented at the 2nd Exhibition of the Deutscher Kunstlerbund in Berlin the same year. Its acclaim only burgeoned when showcased at the Venice Biennale in 1910, captivating audiences with its profound symbolism and exquisite execution. Its journey continued as the painting was selected for display at the International Exhibition in Rome in 1911, where Klimt’s artistic prowess earned him the gold medal in the Austrian pavilion. Housed in the newly established National Gallery of Modern Art in Rome, The Three Ages of Woman remains a testament to Klimt’s refined elegance and enduring fame, securing its place as one of the great allegorical paintings of art history.

For a PowerPoint, titled 12 Painting by Gustav Klint, please… Check HERE!

Bibliography: https://artsandculture.google.com/story/gustav-klimt-the-three-ages/8QVBXs2pR3BlKg

The Lilies of the Valley Fabergé Egg

House of Fabergé, Saint-Petersburg, Workmaster: Mikhail Perkhin, Miniaturist: Johannes Zeingraph, Icon painter: Mikhail Dikarev
The Lilies of the Valley Fabergé Egg, 1898, Gold, Ruby, Rose-cut diamonds, Pearls, Ivory, Glass, Technics Casting, Embossing, Engraving, Guilloche enamel, Watercolor, Gilding, Height: 15,1 cm (opened: 19,9 cm), Fabergé Museum, Shuvalov Palace of Saint-Petersburg, Russia https://fabergemuseum.ru/en/collections/collection-highlights/lilies-of-the-valley-easter-egg

In the realm of art and beauty, William Blake, with his evocative poetry, reminds us on the one hand that… The modest Rose puts forth a thorn, / The humble sheep a threat’ning horn: / While the Lily white shall in love delight, / Nor a thorn nor a threat stain her beauty bright. Echoing this celebration of beauty and purity, on the other hand, Peter Carl Fabergé brings to life the unparalleled elegance of the lily in one of his most celebrated creations: The Lilies of the Valley Fabergé Easter Egg. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Lilly_(poem)

Peter Carl Fabergé was a master jeweller and goldsmith of the Russian Empire, renowned for his exquisite and intricate craftsmanship, particularly in the creation of the famed Fabergé eggs. Born in Saint Petersburg in 1846 into a family of French Huguenot descent, Fabergé inherited his father’s jewelry business and elevated it to extraordinary heights of artistic and commercial success. He became most famous for the series of elaborately decorated Easter eggs he created for the Russian imperial family from 1885 to 1917. These eggs, crafted from precious metals and gemstones, were feats of engineering and artistry, containing surprises such as miniatures, clockwork birds, or ships. Fabergé’s work extended beyond these eggs to include a vast range of jewelry and luxury objects, admired for their beauty and precision. Despite the turmoil of the Russian Revolution, which eventually led him into exile, Fabergé’s legacy endures, symbolizing the pinnacle of craftsmanship and the opulence of pre-revolutionary Russia.

The Imperial Easter Eggs by Fabergé represent a highpoint in the world of art and craftsmanship, a series of 50 opulent, jewelled Eggs created for the Russian imperial family from 1885 to 1917. Commissioned initially by Tsar Alexander III as an Easter gift for his wife, Tsarina Maria Feodorovna, the tradition continued under his son, Nicholas II, who gifted them to his mother and wife. Each Egg, meticulously crafted from gold, enamel, and precious gems, concealed a unique surprise, ranging from miniature replicas of the imperial regalia to intricate mechanical objects, showcasing the unparalleled skill of Fabergé and his craftsmen. Beyond their artistic merit, these eggs held personal significance for the imperial family, commemorating events and anniversaries, and have become symbols of the extravagance of the Romanov dynasty and the lost opulence of Imperial Russia. Today, the surviving eggs are treasured as masterpieces of decorative art, housed in museums and private collections around the world, embodying the legacy of Fabergé’s genius and the enduring fascination with the Romanovs.

House of Fabergé Easter Eggs in the Fabergé Museum, Shuvalov Palace of Saint-Petersburg, Russia https://russiable.com/faberge-museum-st-petersburg/

The Lilies of the Valley Fabergé Easter Egg, crafted in 1898, is the opulent gift given to Empress Alexandra Fyodorovna by Russia’s last Tsar, Nicholas II. This exquisite piece, designed by the renowned jeweler Peter Carl Fabergé, is adorned with translucent pink guilloché enamel on a gold base, vertical strips of rose-cut diamonds and pearl lilies of the valley elegantly accented with diamonds among green enamelled leaves. The Easter Egg is topped with a diamond and ruby-set Imperial crown, that hides a surprise, three miniature watercolour portraits, framed in diamonds, of Nicholas II and the two daughters of the royal family, Olga and Tatiana, in the form of a trefoil that opens when a pearl button is pushed. The Easter Egg is supported by cabriolet legs of graceful gold leaves adorned with pearls and sinuous lines of rose-cut diamonds.

House of Fabergé, Saint-Petersburg, Workmaster: Mikhail Perkhin, Miniaturist: Johannes Zeingraph, Icon painter: Mikhail Dikarev
The Lilies of the Valley Fabergé Egg (detail), 1898, Gold, Ruby, Rose-cut diamonds, Pearls, Ivory, Glass, Technics Casting, Embossing, Engraving, Guilloche enamel, Watercolor, Gilding, Height: 15,1 cm (opened: 19,9 cm), Fabergé Museum, Shuvalov Palace of Saint-Petersburg, Russia https://fabergemuseum.ru/en/collections/collection-highlights/lilies-of-the-valley-easter-egg

Lilies of the valley, symbols of purity, youth, and innocence, were the favourite flowers of Alexandra Feodorovna, who avoided “any kind of pomp” and dedicated almost all her time to her husband and children. They were also a favourite ‘motif’ of the Art Nouveau style, a movement that flourished in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, characterized by its focus on organic forms, intricate designs, and a harmonious integration of art with everyday objects. This Easter Egg exhibits several key characteristics of Art Nouveau, such as its graceful and asymmetrical form, which mimics the natural curves of the lilies of the valley. The use of enamel, a hallmark of Art Nouveau craftsmanship, adds vibrant colour and depth to the piece, while the incorporation of pearls and diamonds accentuates its luxurious appeal. Furthermore, the attention to detail, from the delicate placement of each gemstone to the subtle nuances in the design, reflects the meticulous craftsmanship synonymous with the Art Nouveau movement.

Renowned for its elegance and the intricacy of its design, the Lilies of the Valley Fabergé Easter Egg, encapsulates not just the unmatched skill of its creators but also the rich historical and emotional depth of the era it represents, making it a timeless testament to both the artistic innovations of its time and the enduring legacy of the Romanov dynasty. It epitomizes the Art Nouveau movement through its embodiment of organic beauty, exquisite craftsmanship, and the seamless fusion of art with functionality, while simultaneously serving as a symbol of imperial opulence, intricate artistry, and the poignant narrative of a bygone era.

As we welcome the 1st of May and with the Greek Orthodox Easter upon our threshold, I extend heartfelt Wishes to all for Health, Happiness, and the Warmth of shared moments with loved ones. Let the Lilies of the Valley Fabergé Easter Egg, an exquisite artefact that captures the essence of beauty and tradition, stand as a poignant reminder of the enduring spirit of rejuvenation, hope, and rebirth that Easter brings to many around the world.

For suggested Student Activities, please, Check… HERE!

Fish and Waves by Louis Comfort Tiffany

Louis Comfort Tiffany, American artist, 1848 – 1933 – Tiffany Glass and Decorating Company
Fish and Waves Table Lamp, attributed to Clara Driscoll, circa 1900- 1903, Leaded Glass, patinated bronze, H. 38.1 cm, Private Collection
https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/tiffanys-aquarium-in-stained-glass

In a 1917 Harper’s Bazaar article, Louis Comfort Tiffany explained how he combined his love of water and his appreciation of Asian art and symbolism, in the decoration and landscaping of his home, Laurelton Hall: “Well, you see…here water is used as an element of beauty, following the methods of the Far East. The Orientals worship water. To them, it is a treasure rare, a guest they honor. Here it not only harmonizes with the architectural scheme, but the vital liquid suggests hope, a message even to those living in the arid places of life. So here I have a cascade. Just listen to its merry music as it splashes over the rockery. It is the quick movement of the water that interests me, constant and pure as sunlight. I glory in its whimsicality. Fish and Waves by Louis Comfort Tiffany, the artist’s rare and iconic Table Lamp, best exemplifies his belief. https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/tiffanys-aquarium-in-stained-glass

When I think of Louis Comfort Tiffany, I think of nature’s power, its brittleness, and joy. I think of radiance, luminosity, and brilliance in colour… Let’s start by answering some questions about the great American creator, starting with Who …

Who was Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848-1933)? He was an American artist and designer best known for his work in stained glass. He was born in New York City to a family of artists and craftsmen and was educated at the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts and the National Academy of Design. Tiffany began his career as a painter but soon turned his attention to decorative arts and design. In 1879, he founded the Louis Comfort Tiffany and Associated Artists, which produced furniture, ceramics, and metalwork, as well as stained glass. Tiffany’s most famous work is his stained glass, which he began producing in the 1880s. He developed a technique for producing iridescent glass, known as Favrile glass, which became one of his trademarks. In addition to his work in stained glass, Tiffany was also a prolific interior designer and created a number of luxurious and ornate interiors for wealthy clients. He was also involved in the design of jewelry, particularly in the Art Nouveau style. Tiffany was a prominent figure in the art world of his time and received numerous awards and honors throughout his career.

Who were the artists or craftsmen who worked with Tiffany to create his iconic stained glass artworks? Tiffany had a team of skilled artisans and craftsmen who worked with him at his studio, the Tiffany Studios, in New York City. These artisans and craftsmen were responsible for creating the various components of the stained glass window, including cutting and assembling the glass pieces, creating the metal framework, and painting and firing the glass. Some of the notable artisans who worked at the Tiffany Studios were women, like Agnes F. Northrop, who was the head of the Women’s Glass Cutting Department, and Clara Driscoll, who was the head of the Women’s Glass Decorating Department. Other skilled workers at the studio included glass cutters, glass painters, and metalworkers who helped bring Tiffany’s designs to life.

Who was Clara Driscoll, the head of the Women’s Glass Decorating Department at Louis Comfort Tiffany Studio? Clara Driscoll was an American artist and designer who worked for Louis Comfort Tiffany’s studio, primarily designing lamps and mosaics. She was born in 1861 in Tallmadge, Ohio, and studied art and design at the Western Reserve College in Hudson, Ohio, and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. Driscoll began working for Tiffany in 1888 and quickly rose through the ranks to become the head of the Women’s Glass Cutting Department. She was responsible for designing many of Tiffany’s most famous lamps, including the Dragonfly, Wisteria, Peony lamps, and Fish and Waves Table Lamp. Driscoll’s contributions to Tiffany’s studio were largely uncredited during her lifetime. However, in recent years, her contributions have been more widely recognized, and she is now considered to be one of the most important designers of the Art Nouveau period. In 2007, a collection of her personal letters was discovered, shedding new light on her contributions to Tiffany’s studio and her life as a female artist in the early 20th century.

Tiffany’s Table Lamp ‘Fish and Waves’ is perhaps the finest representation of water’s ever-changing beauty, Tiffany’s fascination with the Orient, and goldfish vigorously swimming among the seaweed. This is a fine example of how Tiffany brilliantly combined the Art of Glass and Metalwork. Let’s finish this presentation with questions starting with How…

How can we introduce Tiffany’s Table Lamp ‘Fish and Waves’? Dated circa 1900-1903, the ‘Fish and Waves’ Table Lamp is known for its intricate and colorful design featuring a school of goldfish swimming among waves of blue and green glass. The designer is believed to be Clara Driscoll. The inspiration comes from Tiffany’s fascination with the Far East, and particularly Koi, the Japanese goldfish that symbolizes perseverance and inner strength as well as prosperity.

How does Clara Driscoll describe Tiffany’s fascination with Japanese Art? In a letter in 1898, she revealingly notes that Tiffany’s home was filled with Japanese art… ‘like a dream of poetry and harmony that might have come out of the East. It is somewhat oriental in effect but not in detail. As if Mr. Tiffany had gone to the same great sources of inspiration but had evolved his own conception of their great principles. I told him that I felt that his work was in some ways suggestive of Eastern thought, which seemed to please him – and he said, ‘Yes I have always been influenced by the oriental idea of form and color’. He said he thought that I was gaining in my work and that I was thinking in the right direction.’ https://www.ngv.vic.gov.au/essay/tiffany-studio-clara-driscoll/

Louis Comfort Tiffany, American artist, 1848 – 1933 – Tiffany Glass and Decorating Company
Fish and Waves Table Lamp, attributed to Clara Driscoll, circa 1900- 1903, Leaded Glass, patinated bronze, H. 38.1 cm, Private Collection
https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/tiffanys-aquarium-in-stained-glass

How would the ‘Fish and Waves’ Table Lamp Shade be described? The shade, of a ‘circular’ shape with a diameter of around 40.6 cm, is made up of hundreds of individual pieces of stained glass, each carefully cut and soldered together to create the complex design of an unsurpassed sense of motion. The depicted goldfish, brilliantly rendered in amber and orange-streaked yellow glass, swim counter-clockwise, among the sinuous vertical strands of seaweed, in glorious shades of green, aquamarine, teal, and blue, that sway gently upwards, with some overlapping a few of the goldfish. The glass selected for the background water passages is equally exceptional. Composed of rippled transparent green-streaked navy and blue glass, the pieces were placed so that the ripples go in a number of different directions, greatly adding to the overall effect of moving water. Mauve glass streaked with brilliant jewel-tone hues is selectively interspersed, evoking the sense of light reflecting on the water’s surface.

How would the ‘Fish and Waves’ Table Lamp cast bronze base be described? The base of the lamp is typically made of cast bronze, and it features three large fish swimming upwards against the current towards cresting waves surmounted by a rope-twist collar that supports the shade. The casting is of phenomenal quality, as is the applied rich brown patina with green highlights. https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/tiffanys-aquarium-in-stained-glass

In 2019, Paul Doros, presenting the Fish and Waves by Louis Comfort Tiffany Table Lamp for Sotheby’s, wrote… A major aspect of Tiffany Studios’ marketing at the turn of the 20th Century was to proclaim that their glass and lamps were true works of art, the equivalent of any great painting or sculpture. This unique example of their Fish and Waves lamp superbly exemplifies that claim and highlights the firm’s remarkable standards of excellence in both manufacturing and aesthetics. It is indeed a masterwork and an object to be revered and treasured by all admirers of Tiffany’s oeuvre. https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/tiffanys-aquarium-in-stained-glass

For a Student Activity inspired by Fish and Waves by Louis Comfort Tiffany, please… Check HERE!

Hartwell Memorial Window by Tiffany

Tiffany Studios (1902–32, American Manufacturer), Agnes F. Northrop (American Artist – 1857–1953, Designer), Louis Comfort Tiffany (American Artist – 1848-1933, Manufacturer)
Hartwell Memorial Window (Detail), 1917, Leaded glass, 798.7 × 554.7 × 42.5 cm, the Art Institute of Chicago, USA https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/after-100-years-obscurity-brilliant-tiffany-stained-glass-window-shine-chicago-180977850/

The stained glass artist for Tiffany Studios, Agnes Northrop, was at the height of her power in 1917 when she designed the dazzling Hartwell Memorial Window by Tiffany, dramatically backlit to mimic sunlight flooding through, creating a kaleidoscope of color. As head of a group called “The Tiffany Girls,” she created some of Tiffany’s most memorable windows and was the first at the preeminent studio to execute landscapes and gardens in stained glass. She was a true virtuoso in what was referred to at the time as painting in glass. https://classicchicagomagazine.com/tag/hartwell-memorial-window/

Agnes Northrop was one of Louis Comfort Tiffany’s most trusted designers and a member of the famous Tiffany Girls. The great Master did not work alone. “Tiffany” designed artworks that were high in demand, and he employed hundreds of artists and artisans. Amongst them are the Tiffany Girls, entrusted with some of the most complex design work in Tiffany’s studios, including window and lamp design, glass selection, and glass cutting. Interestingly, Tiffany thought a woman’s sense of color and the nimbleness of her fingers to be superior to a man’s and entrusted his female designers with this essential part of making his windows. https://driehausmuseum.org/blog/view/from-the-collection-landscape-by-agnes-northrop

Agnes Northrop, American Glass Artist, 1857-1953
https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q102156729

Agnes Northrop was born in Flushing, Queens, in 1857 and died in 1953 in the Gramercy Park Hotel in Manhattan at age 96. She was most likely introduced to Tiffany in the late 1880s and by the 1890s had, according to Alice Cooney Frelinghuysen (Curator of American Decorative Arts at the Metropolitan Museum of Art),  forged an independent role for herself within the studio. https://americanart.si.edu/blog/eye-level/2016/27/305/glass-gardens-agnes-northrop-designs-louis-c-tiffany

Among the first six designers hired by the company, as early as the 1880s, Northrop’s talent was recognized by Tiffany, who entrusted her to design the company’s famous stained glass windows. She was also one of the few women actually given credit for work in exhibitions and catalogs. She was known for her talent in composing floral scenes and was given the prestige of a private studio in Tiffany Studios’ Fourth Avenue building. https://driehausmuseum.org/blog/view/from-the-collection-landscape-by-agnes-northrop

Hartwell Memorial Window (Detail), 1917, Leaded glass, 798.7 × 554.7 × 42.5 cm, the Art Institute of Chicago, USA http://www.ravenswoodstudio.com/project/hartwell-memorial-window/

The Hartwell Memorial Window is one of the most extraordinary leaded glass windows ever made by Tiffany Studios, the leading glass firm of America’s Gilded Age. It was commissioned, over a century ago, by Mary Hartwell, to honor Frederick Hartwell, her late husband. It was originally gifted to the Community Church of Providence, Rhode Island, and remained in the church sanctuary until 2018 when a unanimous decision by the congregation saw it handed over to the Art Institute of Chicago. It was wisely thought that in the Art Institute the precious Tiffany Memorial Window would be well conserved, and appreciated by a wider public. The Art Institute of Chicago welcomed this extraordinary gift and installed the Hartwell Memorial Window in the Henry Crown Gallery at the top of the Women’s Board Grand Staircase in the Art Institute’s historic Michigan Avenue building.

For a Student Activity, inspired by Hartwell Memorial Window by Tiffany, please… Check HERE!

An Art Institute conservator works on the restoration of the Tiffany Studios’ Hartwell Memorial Window by Jonathan Mathias https://chicago.suntimes.com/2021/5/25/22453083/art-institute-chicago-tiffany-hartwell-window-stained-glass

Hand With Seaweed and Shells by Émile Gallé

Émile Gallé, French Artist, 1846–1904
Hand With Seaweed and Shells, 1904, Glass modeled under heat with inclusions of metallic oxides, veins, applications in low and high relief and wheel engraving, 33.4 x  13.4 cm, Musée d’Orsay
https://www.musee-orsay.fr/en/exhibitions/hand-seaweed-and-shells-emile-galles-artistic-testament-196300 and https://gr.pinterest.com/pin/51791464437097192/

Charles Baudelaire wrote… Homme libre, toujours tu chériras la mer! / La mer est ton miroir; tu contemples ton âme / Dans le déroulement infini de sa lame, / Et ton esprit n’est pas un gouffre moins amer.     /     Tu te plais à plonger au sein de ton image; / Tu l’embrasses des yeux et des bras, et ton Coeur / Se distrait quelquefois de sa propre rumeur / Au bruit de cette plainte indomptable et sauvage.     /     Vous êtes tous les deux ténébreux et discrets: / Homme, nul n’a sondé le fond de tes abîmes; / Ô mer, nul ne connaît tes richesses intimes, / Tant vous êtes jaloux de garder vos secrets!     /     Et cependant voilà des siècles innombrables / Que vous vous combattez sans pitié ni remords, / Tellement vous aimez le carnage et la mort, / Ô lutteurs éternels, ô frères implacables! Could the amazing Hand With Seaweed and Shells by Émile Gallé in the Musée d’Orsay celebrates the symbolic role of the sea as well? https://fleursdumal.org/poem/113

The French designer Émile Gallé, a pioneer glassmaker of the late 19th, and early 20th centuries was a leading creator of the Art Nouveau style. According to the POLA Museum of Art experts, Art Nouveau is characterized by curvilinear lines inspired by natural organic forms. Gallé was at the forefront of glass art in this style. He produced a succession of outstanding artworks incorporating his knowledge of the natural sciences, particularly botany and biology, and his outstanding technical expertise. The art production by Gallé, with their plant, insect, animal, and sea creature motifs, can be compared to the act of collecting nature. https://www.polamuseum.or.jp/en/exhibition/20180317s01/

Back in 2004, Musée d’Orsay organized an exhibition titled La Main aux algues et aux coquillages. Le testament artistique d’Emile Gallé to celebrate the centenary of Émile Gallé‘s death (1846-1904). As the title indicates the Exhibition was centered on the artist’s ultimate masterpiece, generously donated to the museum by his descendants in 1990, Hand With Seaweed and Shells. https://archivesdunord.com/5291–p-galle-le-testament-artistique-p-.html

Hand With Seaweed and Shells is the last work of crafted glass produced by the master from Nancy and represents the culmination of his technical mastery. It was exhibited at the Decorative Art Exhibition in Nancy in October 1904, a month after the artist’s death. This exceptional glass sculpture has been hot when modeled, metal oxides were used, and the engraving has been made in relief at the base. The artist used the marbling technique and glass applications in low and high relief. Finally, the engraving was done with the help of a wheel. https://www.wikiwand.com/fr/La_Main_aux_algues_et_aux_coquillages and https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/hand-with-seaweed-and-shells-emile-gall%C3%A9/3QH1q7j-jzvqaw

Émile Gallé, French Artist, 1846–1904
Hand With Seaweed and Shells (Details), 1904, Glass modeled under heat with inclusions of metallic oxides, veins, applications in low and high relief and wheel engraving, 33.4 x  13.4 cm, Musée d’Orsay https://www.panoramadelart.com/main-galle and https://art.rmngp.fr/fr/library/artworks/emile-galle_la-main-aux-algues-et-aux-coquillages_inclusion_grave-a-la-roue-verre_cristal-matiere_application-a-chaud_1904

According to the Musée d’Orsay experts, Hand With Seaweed and Shells is a strangely and ambiguously connoted work questioning if the artist’s work depicts a Hand coming out of the water or if it shows a Hand slowly sinking into it. Does it symbolize life or death? Is it an allusion to Aphrodite being born from the foam in the Ionian sea, or to Ophelia floating along the current? Is this Hand, despite appearances – fineness of the fingertips, shells looking like rings – really a woman’s hand, or is it the artist’s own hand? Whatever the answers are, this is exceptional… a work of art inspired by the world of the sea. https://www.musee-orsay.fr/en/exhibitions/hand-seaweed-and-shells-emile-galles-artistic-testament-196300

For a PowerPoint on Émile Gallé and the World of the Sea, please… Check HERE!

Émile Gallé

Victor Prouvé, 1858-1943
Portrait of Emile Gallé, 1892, oil on canvas, Musée de l’Ecole de Nancy

“Our roots are in the depths of the woods-on the banks of streams and among the mosses.” How do you like this phrase as a “Motto” on your studio door? Émile Gallé loved it,  and used it! https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/%C3%89mile_Gall%C3%A9

One of my fondest memories as a child was to “play” with a small Émile Gallé vase. I would take it up in my hands, study the details of the depicted flowers, gaze at it across the sunlight, count the different colours… try to understand how it was made, ask countless questions! My mother was horrified with my Gallé “games”, as at a younger age, I broke a similar vase and she did not want a repetition of my mischief. I was, however, very resourceful and time with my “vase” became my favourite pastime… one day I even hid it in my cupboard so that it will be all mine! This is how my fascination and love started for… GLASS… a humble material like silica, a constituent of sand and fire!

The French designer Émile Gallé, a protagonist of the Art Nouveau movement, was the greatest of Glass aficionados. “His naturalistic designs incorporated with innovative techniques, make him one of the pioneering glassmakers of the late 19th, early 20th centuries. Taking his inspiration from nature and plants along with a heavy Japanese feel it is no wonder the French have been known to describe his work as “poetry in glass” and across the globe, collectors are willing to pay premium prices just to own an example of this talented iconic designers masterpieces.”     http://www.artdecoceramicglasslight.com/makers/galle/gall-emile—biography

Born on the 4th of March 1846, in the city of Nancy, Émile Gallé, was the son of a successful merchant and manufacturer of glassware and ceramics, Charles Gallé, who had settled in Nancy in 1844 where his father-in-law owned a factory which manufactured mirrors. He grew up and studied in Nancy botany, philosophy and art. “The young Gallé studied philosophy and natural science at the Lycée Imperial in Nancy. At the age of sixteen, he went to work for the family business as an assistant to his father, making floral designs and emblems for both faience and glass. In his spare time, he became an accomplished botanist, studying with D.A. Gordon, the director of Nancy’s Botanical Gardens and author of the leading textbooks on French flora.”     https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%89mile_Gall%C3%A9

Gallé was an avid traveller who visited museums and influential glass designers, improving his glass-making techniques. In London,  at the Victoria and Albert Museum’s Oriental Glass Collection, he focused his interest on the art of Glass Enameling and fascinated by Designer Eugene Rousseau, he experimented with the Glass Cameo Techniques. He trained as a glassmaker at Meisenthal before joining his father at the family factory in 1867 where he was given a chance to experiment with his newfound knowledge. When he 1877, Émile Gallé replaced his father as director of the factory… his career as an artist truly took off.

For a PowerPoint on Émile Gallé, please… Check HERE!

“The aim of my work: The study of nature, the love of nature’s art, and the need to express what one feels in one’s heart.” Ecrits pour l’art, ed. Henrietta Galle Paris 1908/Marseille (1980)…     https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/%C3%89mile_Gall%C3%A9

Brussels Virtual Destination

Hôtel Hannon, In 1902 the engineer Edouard Hannon (1853 – 1931) called upon his friend, the architect Jules Brunfaut (1852 – 1942) to build this mansion, a masterpiece in the Art Nouveau style.

The Swiss painter Hans Ruedi Giger (1940 – 2014), once said that… I like elegance. I like art nouveau; a stretched line or curve… During our COVID 19 Days, we need the elegance of Art Nouveau Art… and stretched, curved lines to feel comfortable and cosy! The Belgian capital city Brussels is so much Art Nouveau in spirit! It’s an ideal travel destination for our 1st May Weekend! Stay in the comfort of your HOME! Snack on something deliciously BELGIAN! …and ACTION! in a Brussels Virtual Destination Tour!

The city of Brussels, capital of Belgium, is located in the heart of Europe, and serves as the de facto capital of the European Union, as it hosts a number of principal EU institutions. Do you know that the most common theory of the origin of the name Brussels is that it derives from the Old Dutch Bruocsella, Broekzele or Broeksel, meaning “home in the marsh”?

The Metropolitan Museum of Art short but a wonderful article that follows is an introduction to the Art Nouveau style in the arts…  https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/artn/hd_artn.htm

The spectacular glass cupola of Victor Horta’s Van Eetvelde House, 1895

…while the following article and the YouTube Videos introduce us to the Art Nouveau capital city of Europe… Brussels! https://theculturetrip.com/europe/belgium/articles/the-most-remarkable-art-nouveau-houses-in-brussels/

Movie Time in BRUSSELS …and ACTION!

King of the Belgians is a 2016 mockumentary comedy film produced, written and directed by Peter Brosens and Jessica Woodworth. While Nicolas III, King of the Belgians, is making an official visit to Istanbul, Wallonia declares its independence and so Belgium doesn’t exist any more… The hard trip back home becomes not only a desperate (and comical) travel across the Balkans but also an inner trip where Nicolas III tries to understand who he really is. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4818804/

Tintin and the Lake of Sharks is a 1972 French-Belgian animated adventure film based on The Adventures of Tintin, directed by Raymond Leblanc. It was not written by Hergé, but by the Belgian comics creator Greg (Michel Regnier), a friend of Hergé. It was later adapted into a comic book with still images from the film used as illustrations. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0069383/

FOOD Brussels style

Belgian chocolate is supposedly the best in the world! For almost 400 years, Belgium has been producing delicious chocolate. The unique combination of the finest ingredients, exclusive production methods and stringent quality controls make Belgian chocolates a favourite worldwide. Today, Belgium counts approximately 2000 chocolate shops. Among them is the popular Brussels shop of a Chocolatier from Thessaloniki, Mina Apostolidis. http://www.minachocolate.com/moms-are-special/?fbclid=IwAR1wq0puPyd6l8TtINEsXOLJysgtvdnbfm8iGW6ynuB6OwovTMH5FW-mR6M

For the original Spring Break Virtual Destination document, please… click HERE!

A Tiffany Drawing and the final product!

Tiffany Glass and Decorating Company, 1892–1902
Design Drawing, ca. 1898–99, Watercolor and graphite on paper, 28.9 x 40.6  cm, the MET, NY
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/17504
Louis Comfort Tiffany, 1848–1933
Bowl, 1898–1902, Enamel on Copper, 15.6 x 24.1 x 24.1 cm, the MET, NY https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/51.121.29/

The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York has in its American Wing’s Collection two items I particularly like. The first is a Watercolour Design Drawing by the Tiffany Glass and Decorating Company illustrating a very special copper bowl belonging to Louis Comfort Tiffany’s private collection. The second item is the actual Enamel on Copper Tiffany Bowl, lushly decorated with plums among leaves in a very organic way, shimmering and glowing…

The MET “Recent Acquisitions, A Selection: 2005–2006”: The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin, v. 64, no. 2 (Fall, 2006) page 53, Publication has the acquisition report of the Tiffany Design Drawing with a plethora of information. We learn, for example, that it presents a large enamel bowl in the Repoussé technique. The artist of the drawing used the Watercolour medium to better represent the luminosity of purple and green translucent enamels. We also learn, through notations, the formulas for the enamel colours used by the artists, and that ten days and 50 hours of work were required to make the piece. Two names written on the paper are of particular importance. “Munson” refers to Julia Manson, the lady in charge of the Tiffany enameling workshop and “Leslie Nash,” a later addition, a Tiffany production manager and original owner of the Drawing. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/metpublications/Recent_Acquisitions_A_Selection_2005_2006_The_Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art_Bulletin_v_64_no_2_Fall_2006

Iridescent Tiffany Enamels were particularly esteemed and in high demand. The large Enamel on Copper Bowl at the Metropolitan Museum of Art is a rare and prized item to admire and study in order to realize high-quality craftsmanship. What I find astonishing is that the Tiffany enameling department was small, production was limited, and exclusively staffed by women artists. The first lady in charge was Patricia Gay, followed by Julia Munson, the artist of our Bowl-in-focus. As described by the sited MET publication, “The shape of the Bowl alludes to the plump, rounded form of the ripe plum. Fruit, leaves, and branches are rendered in repoussé in high relief, and the plums are so three-dimensional that they look almost as if they could be plucked off the bowl…” The MET Publication, pp.77-78, Louis Comfort Tiffany at The Metropolitan Museum of Art [adapted from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin, v. 56, no. 1 (Summer, 1998)] is a wonderful source of information for Tiffany and his accomplishments. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/metpublications/Louis_Comfort_Tiffany_at_the_Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art

For a Student Activity on Louis Comfort Tiffany, please… check HERE!

Repoussé: method of decorating metals in which parts of the design are raised in relief from the back or the inside of the article by means of hammers and punches; definition and detail can then be added from the front by chasing or engraving. The name repoussé is derived from the French pousser, “to push forward.” This ancient technique, which has been used extensively throughout the history of metalworking, achieved widespread popularity in Europe during the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries.

Reverence for Nature and Tiffany

Tiffany’s Incredible Hair Pin

Reverence for Nature and Tiffany is my latest BLOG Post. It is about an extraordinary Hair Ornament in the MET Collection portraying two Dragonflies and Dandelions. Created in 1904 for Louisine Havemeyer, a great collector of Impressionist Art and one of Tiffany’s most ardent patrons, the Metropolitan Museum Hair Pin is my favourite Art Nouveau piece of Jewelry. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/2046

When I think of Louis Comfort Tiffany, I think of nature’s power, its brittleness, yet joy. I think of radiance, luminosity and brilliance in colour. I think of superb craftsmanship… as exemplified in the MET’s Dragonfly and Dandelion Hair Ornament. According to Alice Cooney Frelinghuyse in the MET, the Hair Ornament “epitomizes his earliest jewelry designs, which were based directly on modest forms in nature, such as field flowers and wild fruit, as well as his affinity for enamelling and semiprecious stones with unusual colors. The dragonflies rest on dandelion seedballs, one of which is shown partially blown away, underscoring the fragility of nature. Highly skilled artisans conveyed the transparency of the insects’ wings through delicate metalwork filigree. The temporal quality is revealed in the subject: dragonflies rest in one place for mere seconds before flitting away; dandelions disperse into thousands of airborne seeds with the gentlest of breezes.” file:///C:/Users/aspil/Downloads/Recent_Acquisitions_A_Selection_2002_2003_The_Metropolitan_Museum_of_Art_Bulletin_v_61_no_2_Fall_2003%20(1).pdf

For a short PowerPoint on Louis Comfort Tiffany… click HERE!

A Grade 4 or 5 student Activity on Reverence for Nature and Tiffany is HERE!

https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/2002.620/