The Lady and the Unicorn

by ArtFrench ArtMedieval ArtPowerpointsTextiles
The Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries, circa 1500, Wool and Silk, Musée de Cluny, Paris, France https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Lady_and_the_Unicorn#/media/File:Lady_and_the_Unicorn_1.jpg

In the heart of the Cluny Museum in Paris, six exquisite masterpieces from the late 15th century quietly captivate visitors—The Lady and the Unicorn tapestries. These splendid works of art, steeped in mystery and allure, weave a narrative that transcends time. As we embark on a visual journey through the intricacies of this enchanting work of art let’s remember the oldest reference to the Unicorn… there are in India certain wild asses which are as large as horses, and larger. Their bodies are white, their horns dark red, and their eyes dark blue… The quotation comes from the 4th century BC book Indica, a combination of geography, and zoology, by Greek physician, Ctesias from Cnidos. http://printedpearls.com/unicorns-in-medieval-manuscripts

Introduction

The Lady and the Unicorn is a series of six tapestries dating back to the late 15th century, widely regarded as masterpieces of medieval European art. Each tapestry depicts a Lady interacting with a Unicorn in a lush garden setting, with accompanying elements such as a lion, monkeys, and various flora and fauna. The symbolism within the scenes is rich, revealing the Medieval world of the human Senses and conveying themes of romance, chivalry, and morality. The precise meaning of the tapestries remains open to interpretation, adding to their mystique and enduring allure. Despite the passage of centuries, The Lady and the Unicorn tapestries continue to captivate viewers with their timeless beauty and enigmatic narrative.

The Patrons

Introducing the captivating narrative woven into The Lady and the Unicorn tapestry, the coat of arms featured, a vivid red shield with a blue band adorned with three silver crescent moons, offers a crucial historical clue. This distinctive heraldry connects the commission of the tapestries to the Le Viste family, notable figures in the Paris parliament during that era. The family’s ascent in social status is reflected in the tapestries, adorned with a profusion of heraldic symbols and emblems, a deliberate assertion of their collective and individual power. The full coat of arms, potentially linked to Jean IV Le Viste or his cousin Antoine, suggests a weaving date around 1500. The presence of the initials A and I in the “Mon seul désir” motto hints at a celebration, possibly related to an engagement between the groom and bride, particularly Jean IV and Jacqueline Raguier. Stylistic connections to the workshop of the Master of the Très Petites Heures manuscript and the intricate symbolism throughout the tapestries add depth to the rich tapestry, making it a fascinating exploration of familial power, social ascent, and symbolic storytelling.

The Discovery

Crafted around 1500, The Lady and the Unicorn tapestries have captivated the imagination and curiosity of admirers for centuries. Their historical emergence gained momentum in the 19th century when they were rediscovered at the Château de Boussac, a small castle in central France. Notably, novelist George Sand played a significant role in elevating their prominence by featuring the enigmatic tapestries in her 1844 novel Jeanne, where she described them as masterpieces with intriguing historical significance. Concurrently, Prosper Mérimée, the inspector general of historic monuments in France, became aware of their artistic importance through Sand and recognized their exceptional originality and quality. Motivated by concerns about their condition, Mérimée fervently advocated for the state’s acquisition of the tapestries. Following prolonged negotiations, the town of Boussac ultimately agreed to sell these exceptional artworks to the state in 1882. Since then, they have found a permanent home at the Musée de Cluny – Musée national du Moyen Âge in Paris, where they continue to inspire awe and admiration.

Description and Interpretation

The six tapestries of The Lady and the Unicorn form a harmonious ensemble characterized by balanced and understated compositions, unfolding against a striking red Mille Fleur background. Each tapestry features a central narrative where the protagonist, an elegant, aristocratic Lady, occasionally accompanied by her lady companion, is consistently flanked by a Lion and a Unicorn who carry banners with the Le Viste family coat of arms. The profound mystery embedded in these tapestries, a source of fascination for George Sand, primarily resides in their elusive meaning, subject to interpretations. While five of the six pieces are widely accepted as representations of the Five Senses, Touch, Taste, Smell, Hearing, and Sight, there is a sixth tapestry, the meaning of which, remains enigmatic, leaving viewers to ponder if this is a tapestry depicting a Sixth Sense!

The tapestry presenting Touch is captivating… The Lady demands attention with her commanding presence, her untamed tresses, and opulent attire, as she stands, her right hand firmly lifting the Le Viste family banner while her left delicately touches the Unicorn’s horn. A departure from the norm, this piece unveils unique elements like the Unicorn’s small size and the Lion’s bulging eyes, wide mouth, and pointed ears. The background introduces an array of captivating creatures, including two captive monkeys and collared animals – a wolf, a panther, and a cheetah.

Taste is the second scene presented in the Cluny tapestry series… Here, the protagonist engages in a delicate gesture, accepting a sweet from her lady companion to feed the parrot perched on her gloved hand. The harmonious arrangement centers around the triangular formation of the two women, their relaxed postures, and calm gestures in stark contrast to the lively movements of the Lion and Unicorn, adorned in billowing, armored capes. A rose-covered fence in the background adds depth and frames the elegant scene. The Mille Fleur background, however, teems with life, featuring a hornless young unicorn among other creatures.

The Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries, Smell, circa 1500, Wool and Silk, Musée de Cluny, Paris, France https://theconversation.com/explainer-the-symbolism-of-the-lady-and-the-unicorn-tapestry-cycle-91325

In this picturesque tapestry scene presenting Smell, the third Sense… the Lady is occupied in crafting a floral garland using carnations from a tray tendered by her lady companion. The symbolic gesture is accentuated by a monkey in the background, engaged in the act of smelling a rose. Both women are fashionably groomed, showing luxurious inner and outer garments. The Lady’s hair, mostly concealed, is adorned with a short headdress intricately divided by rows of pearls and bordered with gems, creating a regal allure. Contrastingly, the lady companion’s hair is elegantly styled on the sides, secured with ribbons, and covered with a modest short band, adding a touch of sophistication to this enchanting tableau.

Hearing is presented with a captivating tapestry moment… the Lady is immersed in the melodious pursuit of playing a portative organ, its bellows deftly operated by her lady companion. Set upon an oriental rug, the instrument’s posts are adorned with intricate depictions of a Unicorn and a Lion, lending an air of regality to the scene. The composition, though narrow, exudes elegance, with banners gracefully concealing the trees behind them.

In this poignant tapestry tableau depicting the fifth Sense of Sight… the Lady assumes a seated posture, tenderly caressing the Unicorn with her left hand. The Unicorn reciprocates by resting its front legs on her lap, its gaze fixated on a mirror, a precious piece of gold work. Meanwhile, in the background, a lion cub, a dog, and a rabbit participate in the looking game, enriching the tapestry with additional layers of charm and symbolism.

The Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries, Mon Seul Désir, circa 1500, Wool and Silk, Musée de Cluny, Paris, France https://theconversation.com/explainer-the-symbolism-of-the-lady-and-the-unicorn-tapestry-cycle-91325

In front of a captivating blue pavilion bearing the enigmatic inscription, Mon Seul Désir/My sole desire, a mysterious scene unfolds, prompting contemplation of its profound meaning. This is the sixth Tapestry in The Lady and the Unicorn series! Interpreted as a part of a larger allegory of the senses, this tableau is thought to convey the essence of a ‘sixth sense.’ In medieval symbolism, this transcendent sense could signify the soul, the mind, or the heart – the very core of moral life and carnal desire. The crux of the allegory lies in the phrase ‘My sole desire,’ which, while evoking courtly romanticism, also hints at moral reason or ‘free will.’ The ambiguity of the lady’s actions adds to the intrigue: is she adorning herself with jewels taken from the casket, or is her gesture one of renunciation? Whether embracing or rejecting the pleasures of the senses, her actions are driven by her own free will, epitomizing her ‘sole desire’ for agency and self-determination in this enigmatic tapestry scene.

The Lady and the Unicorn tapestry series at the Cluny Museum is an exquisite embodiment of medieval aesthetic refinement. Crafted around 1500, these masterpieces showcase a harmonious interplay of vibrant colors, intricate details, and symbolic depth. The balanced and elegant compositions feature an aristocratic Lady, a Unicorn, and a Lion against a rich Mille Fleur background, with each tapestry encapsulating a unique allegory of the human Senses. The tapestries’ aesthetic allure lies not only in their technical brilliance but also in the subtle conveyance of narratives, inviting viewers into a timeless world where beauty, symbolism, and craftsmanship intertwine seamlessly.

For a PowerPoint on The Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries in the Cluny Museum, please… Check HERE!

Bibliography: https://www.artgallery.nsw.gov.au/artboards/theladyandtheunicorn/ and https://bloginfrance.com/french%20life/2017/11/22/lady-and-unicorn.html and https://www.musee-moyenage.fr/en/collection/the-lady-and-the-unicorn.html and https://www.musee-moyenage.fr/media/documents-pdf/fiches-de-salles/fichesalle13damelicorne-histoireiconographie-ang.pdf

Two Early Christian Tunics in Thessaloniki

by Byzantine ArtByzantiumEarly Christian ArtEducationEgyptMedieval ArtSocial StudiesStudent ActivitiesTextilesWorksheets
Early Christian Tunic, 5th-7th cent., Wool, 117×100 cm, from Egypt (permanent loan of the Benaki Museum), Museum of Byzantine Culture, Thessaloniki, Greece
https://vizantinaistorika.blogspot.com/2016/06/blog-post_30.html

The Early Christian Tunic refers to a garment style worn during the Late Roman/Early Christian period which generally spans from the 4th to the 7th century AD. This era is characterized by the transition from the classical Roman Empire to the Μedieval period, and it includes the later part of the Roman Empire and the Εarly Byzantine Empire. Tunics of that era evolved from the earlier Roman Τunics but had distinct features that reflected the changing cultural, social, and political landscape. My BLOG intends to present information on Two Early Christian Tunics in Thessaloniki, exhibited in the city’s amazing Museum of Byzantine Culture.

What exactly is an Early Christian Tunic? It is a simple, loose-fitting garment, worn by both women and men and often made from linen or wool. Tunics were generally loose-fitting garments, providing comfort and ease of movement. They had no sewing and were worn with the help of belts, buckles, and pins. Cutting and sewing are practices that experienced wider spread in the Mediterranean area after the 7th century. They had a T-shape or a tubular design, with a hole for the head and sometimes sleeves. The shape could vary, and some tunics were more form-fitting than others. The length of the Τunic could also vary. Some reached the knees, while others were longer, extending to the ankles. https://www.mbp.gr/exhibit/chitonas-2/

While some Τunics were plain, others were embellished with plain coloured bands or ‘ornaments’ of textile bands, roundels, or square panels. These bands (called clavi) were of different lengths and adorned the front and back parts of the garment at shoulder level, but sometimes the lower edge was also trimmed with a horizontal band that turned vertically upwards at right angles at each side. Tunics were also adorned with square panels or roundels (called orbiculi) on the shoulders and near their lower edge. Many times, clavi and orbiculi were garment ornaments, tapestry-woven separately, and then applied to the linen or woolen Tunic. https://www.jstor.org/stable/1522750?read-now=1#page_scan_tab_contents page 239

The clothing of the Early Christian period is often studied through archaeological findings, artistic representations, and references in historical texts. For the history of Early Christian garments and their decoration, Egypt is a treasure trove, due to its hot and dry climate. Egyptian textiles that have survived from this period are referred to as Coptic Textiles, an Arabic corruption of the Greek word ‘Aigyptos’, used to describe the Christianised Egyptians.

In the Museum of Byzantine Culture, in Thessaloniki, Greece, there are two Coptic Tunics (on permanent loan from the Benaki Museum) beautifully decorated with clavi and orbiculi.

One of the two Tunics has the natural color of linen and is adorned with purple-colored woven bands (clavi). Wide bands, for instance, embellish the upper part of the chest on both the front and back of the garment. These bands feature depictions of soldiers carrying shields under colonnades. A narrower band extends across the shoulders, displaying roundels with depictions of hares inside woven squares. Prominent features of the Tunic include two long vertical bands that start from the chest and extend to the hem. These bands are adorned alternately with running lions and hares, creating the impression of a hunt.

The second Tunic, multicoloured, and lively, is equally impressive. Made of linen, coloured a vibrant red, it is adorned with woven vertical white bands, thinner than usually fashionable, down to the waist. The rest of the Tunic’s ornamentation consists of bands for the neck area and the hem of each wrist, adorned with white geometric shapes against a black background for the neck, and white lozenge motifs against a black background for the cuffs. Finally, two discs (orbiculi) with stylized plant motifs in the same colour palette, are placed in the lower part of the Tunic. Noteworthy is the fact that at the height of the waist, there is a seam that covers a belt.

Both Tunics are displayed in the Museum’s 2nd Gallery, where aspects of Early Christian period city life are presented. This Exhibition, inaugurated on July 10th, 1998, is organized around the triclinium, that is the reception hall of a rich house in Thessaloniki. It presents issues that emphasize the role of the city as a fortified residential complex, its private and public life, professional activities, economic life, commerce, workshops, houses and their equipment (pottery and glass vessels), domestic activities (weaving, cooking) and objects for personal adornment. https://www.mbp.gr/en/permanentexhibitions/room-2-early-christian-city-and-dwelling/

For a Student Activity, inspired by the Coptic Tunics in Thessaloniki, please… Check HERE!

The astonishing Tapestry of Dionysus at Abegg-Stiftung

by ArtByzantine ArtByzantiumEarly Christian ArtMuseumsMythologyStudent ActivitiesTextilesWorksheets
Dionysos and his entourage standing underneath arcades lavishly decked out in climbing foliage and braided ornaments, Egypt, 4th century, wool tapestry on a linen ground, h. 210 cm, w. ca. 700 cm, Abegg-Stiftung, Canton Bern , Switzerland
https://twitter.com/Pythika/status/1141411261286146048/photo/1
https://abegg-stiftung.ch/en/
https://twitter.com/caitlinrgreen/status/616963854870970368?lang=el

[1] I begin to sing of ivy-crowned Dionysus, the loud-crying god, splendid son of Zeus and glorious Semele. The rich-haired Nymphs received him in their bosoms from the lord his father and fostered and nurtured him carefully [5] in the dells of Nysa, where by the will of his father he grew up in a sweet-smelling cave, being reckoned among the immortals. But when the goddesses had brought him up, a god oft hymned, then began he to wander continually through the woody coombes, thickly wreathed with ivy and laurel. And the Nymphs followed in his train [10] with him for their leader; and the boundless forest was filled with their outcry.    /    And so hail to you, Dionysus, god of abundant clusters! Grant that we may come again rejoicing to this season, and from that season onwards for many a year. The Homeric Hymns 26 on Dionysus is, I believe, a wonderful introduction to The astonishing Tapestry of Dionysus at Abegg-Stiftung, my new BLOG POST… Translation by Hugh G. Evelyn-White. Homeric Hymns. Cambridge, MA, 1914, Harvard University Press, https://www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/text?doc=Perseus%3Atext%3A1999.01.0138%3Ahymn%3D26

Regretfully, I never visited the Abegg-Stiftung, this amazing “cultural” center where the collection, conservation and study of historical textiles take place. Abegg-Stiftung is based just outside the village of Riggisberg in the foothills of the Bernese Alps, which is where the museum of textiles and applied art, the research library and the Villa Abegg, the Abeggs’ former home that is now a museum, are situated. The studio for textile conservation and restoration is also a training centre for budding young conservators. The Abegg-Stiftung publishes books and papers in which it shares its research findings with fellow historians and conservators as well as a lay readership. Year after year, its annual exhibitions shed new light on a material that has served humanity for thousands of years, whether made up into objects of everyday use or in the form of exquisite works of art. What an amazing place to visit and learn! https://abegg-stiftung.ch/en/

Dionysus and his entourage standing underneath arcades lavishly decked out in climbing foliage and braided ornaments (Museum Room View), Egypt, 4th century, wool tapestry on a linen ground, h. 210 cm, w. ca. 700 cm, Abegg-Stiftung, Canton Bern , Switzerland
file:///C:/Users/aspil/Downloads/ulfl202121_tm_Anexo%20(4).pdf

Among their rich collection of textiles from Late Antiquity, the visitor is astounded by grand and small examples showing figures from Graeco-Roman mythology and scenes from the Old Testament. What really fascinates me is the “Dionysus Hanging,” a monumental tapestry originally that served as a wall hanging in a Roman private home or cult building. The tapestry’s programme shows Dionysus, the Greek god of wine and ecstasy, and his entourage standing underneath arcades lavishly decked out in climbing foliage and braided ornaments. The cult of Dionysos was widespread in Late Antiquity. It promised its adherents life after death and was an articulation of the desire for a life of happiness and superfluity. https://abegg-stiftung.ch/en/collection/late-antiquity/

Dionysos and his entourage standing underneath arcades lavishly decked out in climbing foliage and braided ornaments (Detail), Egypt, 4th century, wool tapestry on a linen ground, h. 210 cm, w. ca. 700 cm, Abegg-Stiftung, Canton Bern , Switzerland
https://abegg-stiftung.ch/en/

An Abegg-Stiftung much-appreciated traditionis its dedication in publishing books and papers in which their experts share their research findings with fellow historians and conservators as well as a lay readership. Among the Museum’s rich List of Publications (for German readers) is a book titled Der Dionysosbehang der Abegg-Stiftung by Dietrich Willers und Bettina Niekamp, Riggisberger Berichte 20 | 272 S., 200 Abb., 32 Tafeln, 1 Falttafel, brosch., 23 x 31 cm, 2015, ISBN 978-3-905014-53-2 https://abegg-stiftung.ch/en/publication-category/riggisberger-berichte-en/

I was able to download Dietrich Willers’s Zur Begegnung von Heidentum und Christentum im spätantiken Ägypten – Der Dionysosbehang der AbeggStiftung (Schweiz) and read in Google translation… http://kgkw.de/Vortrags-Skripte/Willers/KGKW%20Willers.pdf  

Preparing for this BLOG POST I reread pp. 35-38 of Textiles of Late Antiquity, a 1995 Metropolitan Museum of Art Publication, and Woven Interiors: Furnishing Early Medieval Egypt, an Exhibition Catalogue of 2020, organized by the George Washington University Museum, The Textile Museum, and Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection. https://museum.gwu.edu/woven-interiors-furnishing-early-medieval-egypt  

For a Student Activity on The astonishing Tapestry of Dionysus at Abegg-Stiftung, please… Check HERE!

Dionysos and his entourage standing underneath arcades lavishly decked out in climbing foliage and braided ornaments (Detail), Egypt, 4th century, wool tapestry on a linen ground, h. 210 cm, w. ca. 700 cm, Abegg-Stiftung, Canton Bern , Switzerland
https://abegg-stiftung.ch/en/